Ceviche Street in Hallandale Is a Bold Statement of Peruvian Cuisine

Categories: First Look

Lomo saltado

Until Riglos starts rotating in some of the newer ones he's been experimenting with, like the Spanish- and African-inspired ceviches, the trio is a good starting point with a $16.95 price tag that does not daunt once you see the size. One staple of any Peruvian arsenal is the always-comforting lomo saltado, which can be a real litmus test for a handle on sazón casera. Another sizable portion, the lomo, was cooked perfectly and served at an ideal medium rare, and it was accompanied by white rice and home fries that get the same cooking treatment as the yucas fritas with good exterior crunch and a well-done center.

The rest of the menu does not deviate wildly from Peruvian standards, and Riglos certainly knows his home-cooking. Classics like ají de gallina, Tacu Tacus and pescado a la Chorillana are in the $14 to $17 range as well as an assortment of tallarínes that include shrimp, chicken, and lomo with Huancaína sauce. No Peruvian menu is complete without their version of fried rice dishes, chaufas, and these go for the same prices.

Other appetizer choices include crab and octopus wontons, choros a la Chalaca (mussels) and the traditional papa a la Huancaína. For those patrons who had themselves quite a night, Ceviche Street also has potent concoctions to bring you back to the world of the living and sobriety like the Levanta Muertos fish and lime soup and the Rolls-Royce of hangover cures, Leche de Tigre. There is a kids' menu offering chicken or fish strips, but you'd be doing your child a culinary disservice if you don't steer them in the direction of something from the regular menu; with a little guidance, anyone can become more global at an earlier age.

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