The Restaurant People's S3 Looks to Sit Between Beachfront Dives and Deluxe Hotels
At the circular outdoor bar, middle-aged men wearing short-sleeved button-ups and sandals sip cocktails. Inside, on red cloth banquettes and fanned wicker chairs, six women, all wearing short silk dresses and high heels, laugh and clink glasses. At the sushi bar, two stern-looking businessmen talk over the young boy sitting between them.
CandaceWest.com Yellowtail sashimi ($7) at S3 was a bit too fishy and oily.
Every so often, the man with the round-framed glasses and red tie in a fat Windsor knot pauses to show the boy how to hold chopsticks.
Wavy beige and brown panels hanging from the ceiling hold lights that envelop the 300-seat restaurant in a warm orange glow. The large open kitchen is full of hustle and bustle as nearly a dozen cooks toil in front of a blood-red-tile backdrop. Black-clad servers carry long, narrow plates with sticks of fried yucca topped with juicy, medium-rare slices of coffee-rubbed skirt steak and mango chimichurri sauce. A small dish of tender fried artichoke hearts with an herbed dipping sauce is dropped and quickly gobbled up.
Across the street, the Atlantic Ocean twinkles an aquamarine blue. Despite the sensory overload inside the restaurant, the focus is on the water -- or at least, that is the idea.
Though its name is meant to evoke thoughts of the ocean, S3 in a few ways neglects it.