Chef Glen Manfra to Open the Pop Up in Delray Beach This Month
Now set to take its place: The Pop Up, an Italian-themed restaurant that, oddly enough, also has an expiration date of four months.
But unlike AOC, the Pop Up's September expiration is planned. Opening in just a few weeks, the Pop Up will be helmed by longtime SoFla chef Glen Manfra and will feature affordable Italian cuisine aimed at the local, summer diner (a rarer bird than the crested ibis).
The whole mix-up raises some big questions. Namely, how can Manfra swing a four-month stint in a finished restaurant during the low point of the season? And how can he afford to do it without the promise of business in the fall?
I spoke to the 52-year-old Manfra, who recently returned from cheffing for nine months on the Caribbean island of Anguilla. When I called, the chef was busy working on the conversion but spoke slowly and in a thick New York accent when I asked him how the Pop Up came to be.
"I was in the right place at the right time," says Manfra. "I had the opportunity to take over a restaurant for no money and make something out of it."
That "no money" arrangement is an interesting story. And it begins months before the opening of Atlantic Ocean Club.
"Before [AOC] was even built, [owner Larry Lipnick] had my name in mind," says Manfra, with just a smidge of self-assured swagger. Manfra says he was offered the job of executive chef at the restaurant, which was then under construction. But due to a planned business trip that was going to take Manfra away from South Florida for two months, Lipnick decided to give the job to erstwhile Taste chef Jamie DeRosa. That relationship ended in February when DeRosa split from Atlantic Ocean Club. Just three months later, the restaurant closed for good.
After that, Manfra says Lipnick got in touch with him and asked if he'd like to take over the space for the summer. The price was right (read: free), so Manfra jumped at the opportunity.
"My whole career, I've opened places for other people," he says. "My plan is to do this for myself now."
Manfra's list of involvements is pretty long indeed. The chef worked at the first Bice on Long Island in the mid-'80s and first came to Florida when he was tapped to open the chain's West Palm Beach location in 1989. Following that, a partnership with Revlon Cosmetics' Ron Perelman gave birth to a series of Palm Beach eateries: Amici, Galaxy Grill, and Lido Mare. Most recently, Manfra worked with restaurateur David Manero on Sopra (in 2004) and then Vic & Angelo's in Palm Beach Gardens. He's currently listed as "culinary director" on Vic & Angelo's website. According to Manfra, he also "completely reworked the menu" prior to Vic & Angelo's Delray Beach launch and took part in a series of business trips to California with Manero while he was researching menus for the Office.
"I put David Manero on the map," says Manfra boldly.
For his part, Manero denies that Manfra had such a large involvement in his restaurants.
"Glen Manfra never worked at the Office," said Manero via email. "He last worked at our North Palm Beach V&A and was released. I have nothing to do with him. He never created a menu for me."
Regardless of their prior relationship, Manfra's Pop Up and Manero's Vic & Angelo's will be direct competitors once the restaurant opens later this month. Diners can expect a small, dinner-only menu that will change daily, geared primarily toward local summer produce, fresh seafood, and pasta. According to Manfra, prices will stay reasonable, at under $24, with homemade pastas in the $14 to $19 range as well. That price point, says Manfra, jibes with his vision for the restaurant.
"You've got to be foolish to open a restaurant in the middle of summertime," Manfra admits. "So I need to price myself to get people to come in and have a good taste, come here and eat a few times a week without hurting themselves in the pocketbook and come in during the summer months. If everything works out, hopefully I can turn it into something where I can keep my time busy until I'm 60 years old. There's a hotel on Anguilla I'd love to buy someday."
At four months a pop, Manfra may have to plan a few more Pop Ups to get there.