Our feature story this week on South Florida's food trucks
covered one of the original trucks operating in Broward and Palm Beach, Delray's the Rolling Stove
. Fire-engine red with a faux-smoke stack that stands high above the truck's shady awning, the Stove serves hearty, heavy, Midwest-inspired street food of the greasy-good ilk. Its signature steak burger is a perfect example: Owner Troy Thomas (right) compliments the fresh beef blend he nabs daily from K&G Meats (the same beef used at Charm City Burgers
) with the addition of ground-up bacon that works its way into the patty's every nook and cranny. Topped with grilled or fried onions and a generous smear of aged Wisconsin cheddar, it's a burger that should come with a complimentary bypass. Oh, it's excellent as well -- one of the finest in two counties, in this eater's opinion. Juicy, full-on flavor, with a supple bun that's wisely toasted on the inside (not outside, so your teeth sink right through).
But the Rolling Stove doesn't stop at burgers. Thomas is a creative chef who changes his menu constantly. His style isn't light, but it certainly plays to the proletariat kid at heart in all of us. Case in point: Juicy, supple chicken tenders he coats with Capt'N Crunch and then fries to a sienna-tinged crisp. Or beignets made with reduced apple cider and coated in cinnamon sugar (only on weekends). Those Franco-fied doughnuts have the sort of yeasty character any good pastry should.
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