Order Up: Pizzeria Oceano and Corelino's Coal-Fired Pizza & Cucina
|A bianca pizza from Corelino's in Lake Worth.|
The other 15 percent? "Ten percent is purely bad." That math leaves only 5 percent of the pizza as exceptional.
I tried to test that theory this week by visiting two newish gourmet pizzerias in Palm Beach County. Pizzeria Oceano uses local and artisan ingredients to craft its small-batch, wood-fired pies. Corelino's Coal-Fired Pizza & Cucina follows closely the coal-fired mold, with a strong adherence to tradition. Both have a lot to offer, but only one of those pizza places truly falls into that 5 percent category.
Find out which in this week's Dish review, online later today. For now, an excerpt.
It came to the table as thin as a sheet of poster board, its steaming-hot top scattered with a thin layer of leafy local spinach cooked just to wilting. The white pie had no sauce either -- just mozzarella, garlic, and the most powerful squirt of sunshine-bright lemon juice that tasted like it had been condensed by the oven's heat. We took a bite and nodded at each other in approval. It was pizza perfection.
"And the crust," Eric said as he took a bite. "Look at this." He grabbed a slice by the charred crust and held it aloft. The dough was so perfectly cooked, it held straight up, like a flag in the wind.