The Devil's in the Eggs

Categories: The Critic
racksdeviledegg.jpg
One retro foodstuff that seems to be making a comeback is deviled eggs. Typically the sort of fodder you'd find at 1950s-themed cocktail parties, these bite-sized snacks are making their way onto menus all over South Florida.

I get the phenomenon, I do. Deviled eggs -- nostalgic though they may be -- taste great with booze. You don't need silverware to eat one. You just pop it in your mouth and follow that up with a swig from your beer. Or more appropriately, a martini.

First came the deviled eggs at the Office. A wax-paper-lined tray of five eggs costs $6 at the Delray Beach gastropub. I don't much care for them because it's obvious they contain relish and/or pickles, making the eggs overly sweet.

Michelle Bernstein's at the Omphoy also hocked deviled eggs for some time from its terrace bar. I never tried them, but they appeared alongside plenty of other tapas-style eats.

This week, I reviewed Rack's Downtown Eatery + Tavern in Mizner Park. Rack's serves deviled eggs too, and I like its version the best. These eggs (pictured above) are probably the closest I've tried to the classic incarnation of the dish. The "deviled" yolk tastes like it contains little other than mayonnaise and mustard, with a scattering of chives and dash of paprika on top. The egg isn't cut into halves, like at the Office. Rather it's a whole egg with the top snipped off and hollowed out and the filling piped in. This "feels" like you get more egg for the buck.

Still, an order of five eggs runs $5 at Rack's, making me wonder: Are deviled eggs so popular on restaurant menus because they're insanely easy to mark up? I'd gladly order Rack's version to go with a beer, but at $1 per egg, it seems like a bit of a price gouge.

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The Office

201 E. Atlantic Ave., Delray Beach, FL

Category: Restaurant

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