Las Colinas in Wilton Manors Serves Up Lunch-Counter Cuban
|Photos by Eric Barton|
|Las Colinas means "the hills," and you get a mountain of rice with the dinners.|
But the truth is, a fine ropa vieja can be found at lunch-counter Cuban joints, like Las Colinas, a Wilton Manors restaurant that does a brisk lunch business out of its takeout window.
You won't get Versailles-style circumstance here -- just simple Cuban dishes served on plastic plates. The glass tabletops hide the huge
menus underneath, and the lunch counter faces the tiny, open kitchen.
|The chicken salteado.|
Here, the ropa vieja ($6.95) comes with a thin and somewhat oily gravy, but the flavor shows it has been simmered long till tender. The chicken salteado ($8.95) is lightly seasoned, mostly with just salt and the well-cooked peppers and onions covering it. The maduros are sautéed until the edges of the sweet plantains become carmelized and crisp.
Las Colinas does a brisk business for its pressed sandwiches, which include a half-dozen varieties of Cubans. But it's probably best-known for the breakfasts (it won Best Cheap Breakfast from New Times in 2004), which scans the gamut of the Americas, from huevos rancheros to eggs with chorizo. With a coffee on the side, the breakfast still rings up at $5 or less -- the kind of prices we should expect for good Cuban food.
2724 N. Andrews Ave., Wilton Manors