What Do You Think About Sam Sifton's Critical Debut at the New York Times?

​In one of the most-talked-about moves in food journalism since... well, as long as I can remember, Frank Bruni hung up his silverware at the New York Times in August, leaving a gaping chasm for his successor, the Times' own Sam Sifton, to wedge into. Sifton's very first column -- on Daniel Boulud's punky sausage shop DBGB -- dropped today. So far, so good.

Far be it from me to critique the writing of a vet like Sifton, but I did enjoy his first offering, even if it seemed to hover over Boulud's backside with a pair of smacking lips. Then again, if the food's that good, Charlie would be the first to pucker up alongside him.

What did you think of Sifton's column? Did it make you pine for the days of Bruni, or is it resounding proof that the Era of Sam is in full effect?