The Grill At The Setai Relaunches

The interior of The Grill at The Setai (as well as The Restaurant portion) is arguably one of the most beautiful in Miami-Dade. When it comes to the Zen-like outdoor pods-on-the-pond dining area there is no argument -- this is the most beautiful al fresco setting. The cuisine here has always been ambitious, but it didn't really come together until Jonathan Wright took over the chef reigns. Tonight, he and sous chef Anthony V are relaunching The Grill with a revised menu that looks notably enticing.

Extensive raw bar selections run the gamut from  Florida stone crabs to Scottish langoustines, and from house-smoked salmon to Pickle Points oysters. The charcuterie section offers Jamón Ibérico de Bellota of varying ages, along with foie gras torchon  and pâte. Pumpkin soup with porcinis and black truffle mascarpone sure tempts us, as do esteemed steaks like "Greg Norman" Australian Wagyu (with top grade of 7), and Japanese Kobe A5 (insider tip: if you want A6, ask for A1 Sauce).

Side dishes that sound most seductive: roasted bone marrow with red onion and parsley; English peas; braised turnips; fava beans; duck fat fries with truffle salt. Chocolate tart with roasted almond sorbet will be the dessert we try first. A prix fixe menu is available for $55, but don't expect to be offered any of the aforementioned luxe comestibles.

These sorts of ingredients in this type of setting don't come cheap -- the low end of the steak range is a Niman Ranch 16-ounce ribeye for $58. Or, for $92, you can nab a Four Story Hill Farms Avaiane poulade roasted with black truffles -- perhaps the priciest chicken in town, but it might also be the tastiest. We shall see.

--Lee Klein